![]() ![]() This is why I and a couple others have suggested trying to put sideways pressure on the tube (as if you were trying to bend the bit of the frame it's connected to) in order to try and force the nutsert to bite enough to let him get the two apart. The problem the O/P is having is not getting the plate off the bottom of the tube (which your "grinding off the head of the bolt" suggestion applies to), it's that when he tries to unscrew the tube from the nutsert in the frame, the nutsert is spinning instead of gripping the frame metal and allowing the tube (and, more importantly, the stud installed in the tube) to spin within the nutsert. The "tube" to body/frame is a blind attachment - the stud connecting the tube to the frame is completely hidden by the tube, and there's no access into the frame cavity to get pliers on the nutsert unless he starts cutting into the car's frame around where tube is attached. If memory serves (I installed my plate 15 years ago, so I'm working from OLD memory here), the stud appeared to be pressed into the tube, so you can't just unscrew the tube from the stud either - for good or ill, the tube and stud are one assembly and will NOT come apart easily. A bolt (with washer) then passes through the hole in the plate and threads into the insert in the tube to secure the plate. Then you lift the plate into position, which aligns holes in the plate with the threaded insert at the bottom of the tube. You put one nutsert into the frame of the car, and then screw the stud end of the tube into it until it's tight against the frame (then repeat on the other side). The tube has a threaded stud at one end, and a threaded insert at the other. This is an old Evolution design (my Atlas plate is vintage 2006, and has the same mounts). Front/passenger side is bolt that spins freely.Andy, I think you're misunderstanding what he's dealing with: Picture of bolts attaching skid plate to frame, 2 of 3 blots in picture. Picture top side of skid plate with mud packed in Pictures of center of skid plate with one bolt without the nut and a picture above skid plate. Is there a way to repair this without cutting an access hole in the side of the frame and welding a new bolt in? (This is something I can not do!)Īny suggestions to reduce the risk of breaking another nut free from the frame when I try to remove the bolts? I assume I have to cut the bolt to remove the skid plate with the other 5 bolts removed. I'm assuming the bolt that was welded to the inside of the frame broke loose and the bolt/nut is spinning. The first one I tried to loosen, groaned and then started to spin freely. The 6 bolts (3 on either side) that hold the skid plate to the frame. I should have a jack support the weight of the transmission/ transfer case when I remove the skid plate? As the transfer case is entirely behind the skid plate, is one jack on the transmission enough to support it?īigger problem. What is this bolt that is off center (currently with no nut, see pictures)? This bolt is currently missing a nut so it just hang there, loose. There are 2 bolts in the center that appear to go into a transmission mount in the middle of the skid plate and bolt several inches off center (to the driver's side) that go to up through the plate and has 2 rubber bushings. The skid plate has 3 bolts holding it to each side of the frame rails. There is a lot of mud caked in there and my CJ5 has a catalytic converter I was planning to replace while I've got it apart. ![]() To this I plan to drop the transmission skid plate. My next task was to drain/refill the transmission and transfer case and put a new exhaust on. I've changed engine oil, flushed and changed radiator fluid (with new thermostat and water pump) and drained/flushed/filled differentials. I've been slowly cleaning her up to get her on the road. ![]()
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